Thursday, December 5, 2013

TOTO CT416-03 Aquia II Elongated Bowl, Bone

TOTO CT416-03 Aquia II Elongated Bowl, Bone

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Product Feature

  • Skirted design facilitates easy cleaning
  • Large, 2-1/8-Inch fully glazed trapway
  • Decorative, high profile
  • Elongated Front
  • Excellent Rim Wash

Product Description

Toto CT416#03 Aquia Ii Dual Max Bowl - Bone (Caution: Ct416 & Ct414 Bowls Are Not Interchangeable)

TOTO CT416-03 Aquia II Elongated Bowl, Bone Review

I purchased two Acquia II toilets to install in our master and guest baths. I can say I'm extremely happy with them, and will break it down and give a few installation tips.

Function: Excellent. Compliments from all our guests so far. The most important thing is that it flushes everything cleanly, even on the lowest setting (which is actually 11 for the partial flush, Spinal Tap reference anyone?, which is much less than 1 gallon). We don't really need the full flush, but it's nice to have. The low water level, as some reviews on the net say, makes it easier for things to stick to the walls. But you can position position yourself towards the back of the bowl quite comfortably, and the big flush is powerful enough to unstick it 99% of the time. I'm very impressed with the flush/bowl design. It is way way more effective at flushing than you'd think. Also, I haven't noticed any sewer smell at all, which some folks worry about with toilets that have low water levels.

Looks: Nice. It is narrower than my old toilet, making things feel more spacious. The seat is higher, and the skirt is nice looking and easier to keep clean.

Seat notes: We got a soft close seat from OSH and modified the washers to use the included special mounting screws for Toto skirted toilets. It was easy enough, so you aren't stuck with buying Toto seats. That said, I tried a seat at first that requires you to spin the bolts from below and that is VERY hard to do after the toilet is installed. You just cannot reach under the installed toilet if it is close to the wall. So, consider what type of seat you want before installing the toilet, and if you go with something incompatible with the special bolts, put the seat on first, before installation. Or, go with something that can use, or be modified to use, the special Toto bolts (the Toto screws are a brass bolt in a rubber casing that expands when twisted so you don't have to reach under the toilet).

Installation: Here was a small downside only because I don't think the manual explains things well enough. Here are a few tips to make things move rather smoothly.
1. Have some extra supplies: you'll need *new T bolts for attaching the flange to the floor, *2 wax rings (you should only need 1, but they are cheap, so have an extra ready), *flexible inlet tubing (I was fine with the shorter one, but measure ahead of time).
2. Follow their instructions except for a few things. First, install your seat on the bowl ahead of time.
3. After you get the old toilet out, clean up the floor etc., stuff a wad of newspaper in the drain to keep sewer gases down. Make sure it is retrievable.
4. Mark your drill holes for your anchors. This is the big thing that the instructions get wrong. The included anchors just won't fit into the hole size they recommend. Here is what I found to work.
a. First, drill pilot holes (use a hammer bit for tile) ~3/16". Use a piece of tape on the bit to limit your drill depth.
b. Then drill out the recommended 5/16" if you are working in tile.
c. Now, before you put in the anchors, take a larger bit (I used 11/32") and drill down about 3/8", about the depth of the anchor head. Otherwise when you hammer it in, the head will just catch and flatten. Trust me, it will NOT go into the recommended hole size.
d. Flip the anchors upside down and put them over the hole to make sure they will fit snugly, then flip them right way and tap them in.
e. Take a razor and clean up the tops if they are sticking out a little.
f. Lastly, take your 3/16" bit back out, and drill a pilot hole in the anchors. The anchors will still be rock solid even with all the changes I'm suggesting. I've seen pros on the web recommend everything I'm suggesting here, I'm just compiling it.
5. When putting on the flange, if one wax seal doesn't fill the gap, just stack another one on in the same direction.
6. When putting the bowl on the flange, get the newspaper out and sit on the bowl and rock around a bit to settle it. This is BEFORE inserting the screws into the sides of the bowl.
7. The rest should go textbook except that if you want to modify the partial flush volume, note that 11 is the LEAST water, and 1 is the most.
8. Also, no need to trim the buttons as the book says, they should be exactly the right length already. (both of my toilets were fine)
Good luck.

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